Monday, March 31, 2014

Ninot in gold

Pattern: Ninot, by Pauline Alice, size 36
Fabric: wool blend lightweight coating from Minerva Crafts and silk recieved as a destash gift

Just in time for spring, I finally made myself a Ninot jacket. I bought the pattern the minute it was released and I was already then picturing it in this gold wool fabric I had previously bought with no plan in mind. The fabric is amazing, with gold lurex strands, so it actually sparkles! It paired wonderfully with the Ninot, even though I probably would choose a fabric with a bit more body for next time. It holds the deep pleat in the back wonderfully though, and it has a pretty texture, so I am happy anyways. I paired it with a silk lenght for the lining (it seems extravagant to use silk as a lining, but it is a colour and a pattern I wouldn't have use as self, so win-win!) and some gold buttons. The fabric frayed badly, so I chose not to make bound buttonholes and went for keyhole buttonholes on my machine.
I love, love, love this pattern. The drafting is great and everything goes together perfectly, the instructions are clear and the sizing is accurate, comparable to ready-to-wear. But what really makes Pauline's pattern so unique are really the details. This jacket has an eye-catching feature in teh back, with the deep pleat, but lots of great little details like tabs, yokes, a collar and a lining. I'm really disappointed every time a jacket pattern doesn't come with pattern pieces for a lining. I would much spend the extra effort and have a lined jacket, but maybe that is just me. Speaking of the collar, I decided to leave it out, which is quite shocking for me, considering my love of collars. But I loved the retro-but-updated the collarless version had and decided to give it a try. I'm really pleased with the result, which is decidedly more modern and polished. Another great pattern from Pauline! The Carme blouse is on already all prepped, but I need to find the perfect fabric first...

Monday, March 24, 2014

Teal Anna

Pattern: Anna dress by By Hand London
Fabric: teal polyester, bought in India

So, I'm late to the party (I am always late to the party), but Anna is my new love. I suspect Flora will soon be, but I believe in polygamy when it comes to sewing patterns! This is the first of two Annas so far, and I see more coming, probably with skirt variations. I would be wearing this dress all the time if it wasn't for the fabric. The colour is gorgeous, but it is a flimsy, almost see-through polyester. It's a shame, but it clings to my legs despite me wearing a slip underneath, which is really annoying. It was also very difficult to work with, being so shifty, and the finishing is therefore not my best work. Other than that, it is a beautiful dress, very classic and feminine.

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Denim Thurlows and a cotton blouse

Patterns: Sewaholic Thurlows, modified to a straight leg and Stil 8271
Fabrics: black denim for the trousers and a cotton lawn for the blouse

Another double today, with two items I am especially proud of! First up is a little blouse from a vintage swedish Stil pattern. What really makes this bouse really is the fabric: a soft, flowy cotton I purchased at Moods in New York during the holidays. It is probably the nicest fabric I have ever worked with, which made sewing up this blouse a real treat. The drape of the cotton works very well with the cap sleeves of the pattern, and the geometric print makes it very easy to wear.

The second make I have to show off today is a pair of denim Thurlows. People, I made a legit pair of pants. With a working fly and beautiful welt pockets and everything. I did get very friendly with my seam ripper while trying to sew the fly, but I got there in the end. The fit is far from perfect, but these are straight from the envelope, apart from the obvious modification to the width of the legs. I am pretty happy to have these as a starting point to perfect the fit in future iterations, and will happily wear them. The fit is actually not worse than RTW pants, so I am pretty pleased.